![]() ![]() Basically, so that I have a total of 3 pick guards: an S-S-S, an H-S-S, and an H-S-H. I have an idea that was inspired by cabling I have seen in computers (computer fans), and would like to know if anyone has already done this, and whether it is recommended or not.Īnyway, what I would like to do is build out 2 other pick guards, and solder them together. Then change out the stock caps they are not very good.I have a n Affinity strat that is currently a stock S-S-S configuration. The CTS I replaced them with (500k's) read 498k and 505k. Gibson pots tolerances are high, I measured my Gibson pots and the 300k's (volume) read 240k and 320k respectively. Personally I have never used them and gold doesn't appeal vs low tolerances and stiff turning friction on the CTS. Another reason is the pots.others will correct me if im wrong but the PCB uses bourne gold pots. Historical reasons mostly, everyone wants to have a classic retro LP and others like me that also enjoy modifying and upgrading the circuit to get that tone in your head, this is not possible with the PCB as its static and cannot be changed easily. ![]() Of course there is the issue of the "modern" capacitors and the (more or less) fixed wiring. Out of curiosity, why do people hate the PCBs in the 2008+ Standards? The quality of the pots and electrical integrity (connections) of that setup are outstanding. I'm posting details of that on another thread here. I just put the Molex connector on my "Super Distortion" last night and put it in the bridge. I'm sure most folks would think this is crazy - but I like the idea of being able to mix and match components and being able to go back to 100% original condition. That way I can leave the original selector switch and input jack in place without modification. I plan to retain all of the Molex connections even when I remove the PCB. So, my new DiMarzios have Molex Microfit connectors on them just like the original Burstbuckers. That would give me the option of mounting on a plate, if I decided that I wanted to (though I don't think I want to use a plate).Ĭonfiguration is going to be "back-to-the-future" as I am upgrading the pickups first without ditching the PCB. Thanks Angellus - I guess it makes sense to just get the long pots. Long shaft you can adjust with washers anyway to decrease the amount poking out of the top of the guitar so no problem there. Generally short shaft for SG's and long shaft for LP's, because of the carved maple top longer shafts are normally needed however they are hand carved tops so they are not uniform. Makes things easier to install too, but you can wire it up without the plate for a really retro vibe.ġstly congrats on ditching the PCB, good choice sir and good choice on the CTS too. The plate is used as a common ground for the pots (no need to wire the backs of the pots together. ![]() Should the regular work? Should I be using long and mounting to a plate? not long) shaft length would work for all Gibson LPs - unless you were mounting the pots on a plate "behind" the top of the guitar. I see the CTS pots in kits for Gibson LPs in two different "sizes" regular and "long shaft". ![]() I am thinking about replacing the original PCB setup with CTS pots and Jensen caps. I have a 2009 Gibson LP Standard - with the controls mounted on a printed circuit board (standard factory setup for 2008+). ![]()
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